80 before 3081 before 30apo whang odbuscalanchico rivereriitravelskalingamambabatokout of townproject 81traditional tattoo
Apo Whang Od and The Buscalan Tribe
It has always been my fascination to discover such a place
that will break your heart when you leave. That tingling feeling inside your
heart that aches while walking away on place you’ve grown to love. I never
thought I would find such in the early days of 2016 and on my birthday month.
Our trip to Kalinga is just to meet the last mambabatok,
have inked by her, experience the place, and do outreach program for my
birthday. I never imagined that this place will give me more than that.
It was seven in the evening of January 23, 2016 when we left
Manila and head on at Tabuk, the Province’s first ever City. I love long rides.
It gives me an excuse to succumb to my troubled and shattered mind. Yes, there
are a lot going on inside my head than you can imagine. 9 long hours on the
road and we are at Tabuk at dawn. So quite. So peaceful. The sun isn’t up yet
and as it breaks to rise, the beautiful city of Tabuk shines through our eyes
and I know great adventures awaits us in a few more hours.
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When we left Tabuk City and head to Buscalan I was still
sleepy but decided not to sleep for I want to admire the view along the way.
You will never know what you will see out there and I’m glad I did. The view is
just magnificent and breath taking! I’m talking about the Chico River. I’ve
read about it when I was doing the research about Kalinga but seeing it with my
own eyes is far different than just reading it. It became our companion along
the road for it is visible on every turn of the van going up to Buscalan. It
was a 4 long hours drive from the city so imagine how long the river is. It was
so pure and beautiful that I can’t imagine what more when I’m on foot on the
river feeling the cold water up to my nerves. Hopefully, I will get to experience
water rafting there one day.
Arriving at Buscalan and meeting our guide is the first step
to our quest. Riding the habal-habal on a very narrow road with a few bumps is
the second. Trekking for an hour on a narrow and steep hill is the third. Yes,
meeting the last mambabatok requires a lot of effort, I must say. I’ve posted a
detailed guide on how to meet Apo Whang Od. Here’s the link. If you are so
eager to meet her you will dedicate your time and patience and every energy
you’ve got inside of you and once you reach the top you will be amaze not just
for what your eyes will see but the feeling of satisfaction and pride that
after 14 long hours of travel all the way from Manila you can say to yourself
that you made it! And that’s exactly what I’ve felt that time. I’ve been hiking
for a time but this one is different. And I think, every destination is
different even if you’ve been to place more than once.
GMA 7 was having an interview that time so all scheduled
people in the morning were moved in the afternoon and the rest too. Giving us
no choice but to wait the following of the afternoon.
What welcomed us was the smiles of the local looking so
excited about the tourist coming and visiting their place and it is far more
than a good site from anything. Knowing that a completely stranger to you makes
you feel wanted and welcome at their place.
The initial plan is to be inked by afternoon of the day we
arrive or at least in the morning of the following day, which is Monday, and
goes home after that. But, we didn’t anticipate the interview, so we were moved
Monday afternoon, and no trip later than 3 pm for the road is dangerous at
night (blind curves and no street lights) So, we discussed everything with our
guide and he told us that he can have a van going to Bontoc where we can get a
bus ride to Baguio and from there board a Bus going back to Manila. That is, if
we will be able to finish until 3 pm.
When we learned about our situation, we take advantage of
the rest of the afternoon exploring the place. They have a rice field, a rice
terraces, almost similar to Banaue, they coffee farms, a lot of pigs everywhere
roaming around, and a very smiling and hospitable people of the tribe. There
are no signals here so quality time with your friends and a few locals is a
guarantee.
We packed canned goods and few breads with us and that’s
what we eat the entire trip. Rice and coffee is unlimited and is included on
the 250 per night stay at the guest house. There are few sari-sari store where
we buy additional canned goods and noodles and there is this one family who
sell vegetables but we managed to buy only cabbage for our last night.
Our first night is bang! We had a drink with other locals.
Most are men, but are very kind and funny. They were explaining and telling
their history and we are asking more about their place and how it was started.
And I read somewhere that they are from a line of warrior so I asked them about
it. I have a huge fascination on every warrior related thing and they are more
than willing to narrate it to me. We ended the night very late and succumb to
sleep by 1 in the morning.
We woke up early the following day, explore a bit more,
visit Apo Whang Od’s house, and after eating our breakfast we head to the
tattoo shop and check our schedule for that day. Since there are still long
queues, we visit the school where we are going to give the school supplies we
bring for the kids. As you know, this trip is also serves as an outreach for my
birthday. After having a great time with the kids we go back at the tattoo shop
and watch other people get their tattoos. Waiting is not boring. That is, if
you are waiting at the tattoo shop. The shop are full of locals watching the
session and having some small talks and entertaining the visitors. From time to
time, some locals were singing old songs I never heard of before, it was in
their dialect, but though I am not understanding it, and though no music
accompaniment but the strong cold breeze and sound of the wind blowing, it is
so good to the ears, the wind is in rhythm with their voices and it echoes down
to everyone in the shop. More laughs of course, some of the locals were
entertaining us with a lot of mind games and stories of their history and
anything about Apo. It feels like a long day! And I am very excited for my
turn.
The plan is to have two tattoos that day, one from Apo Whang
Od and one from Grace. I did manage to have each from them. More than that, it
seems like I have twice for Apo. Why? Here goes. There are few people now on
the queues, most are foreigners and there are only two groups of Filipinos, the
couple and us four and one backpacker. When it is my turn to Grace it was so
light and easy. I didn’t feel any pain, none at all. It was like that for
almost half an hour and then she rose up and exclaimed to Apo about something
and it feels like she is talking about my tattoo, yes, they have different
dialect, which we know nothing about, she is pointing at me and my tattoo and
the locals asked me to go near Apo for her to see. It was when our guide
explained to us in a few more seconds that the charcoal doesn’t inked on my
skin and for that it doesn’t bleed at all. For the charcoal to stain the skin
should bled. It was when I realized that Grace seek for Apo’s help and have it
redo by Apo, by that time she pause on tattooing one backpacker to give way to
me. So it was another pukpok session
with Apo, and in no time, it was bleeding.
Apo is a beautiful woman and looks very delicate and warm.
Though we did not understand her because of dialect barrier her aura is like
any other grand mother. She smiles from time to time, when a tourist gives her
gifts she smiled like a child who has been given the most precious gift, very
simple, its as if for her, you did not just go there just because it’s the norm
now, not because you’re in on the trend, but because you take time to visit her
and gives her something you planned ahead on and exert time and effort on that
and I think most of us will feel the same if we are given such treatment like
that. Plus still tattooing at her age proves that she loves what she do and it
is her passion.
It was lunch time when I was finished and Apo will have to
eat her lunch first before she continue. After we had ours, we go fix our
things for we are leaving right after having our tattoos. When we got back to
the shop, one foreigner take advantage of no one in the shop so he was able to
get head on first before us. By that time, my friend Bella is having her tattoo
session with Grace too, like me she also plan on having one for each.
It was 3 in the afternoon when Apo started tattooing my
friend JM, and after her is Ibeng, and then Me, and then Bella. So, obviously,
we will not be able to leave for Manila that day and we accept the fact that we
will be staying for another night at Buscalan. We mourn at first for we have
work waiting back at Manila but all the same, this inevitable are all part of a
great journey. Plus, another excuse to be away from the busy streets and
polluted Manila. And getting to know more of the place.
It was almost 6 in the evening when Bella was done with her
tattoo. Getting a tattoo from Grace and Apo Whang Od is different. They have
different attack. I felt pain when Apo starts at my back. I don’t know if its
because there are bones that was hit on but it was tolerable. I felt pain at
the first hit but after that it was numb and I get the vibe already and doesn’t
hurt at all.
For our last night, we drink again, but little this time for
we need to wake up early in the morning.
Me and Bella, wake up early that day and we were talking
about how a part of us doesn’t want to leave the place. On our few talks with
our guide, we asked him if we can buy land at their place even if we are not
originally from there and he said yes, we asked about how much and how it was
done. Yes, we planned on buying a few meter lands there. We are planning to
retire at that place one day. Oh, how we love that place so much. No signal,
far from everyone, very simple living, very admirable tribe. Their culture is
very rich and the people are all kind.
Every step descending takes looking back at the place from
time to time. And as I am writing this one now I can’t help but remember the
time when I was at the point where you can already see the tattoo shop, it was
so small from where I stand, and its only few hours back when I was sitting at
the nipa hut and now I am just staring at it at far leaving in a few more
minutes and it struck my heart so much. Its like dragging my feet to the
terminal and you are fighting back and holding on to the surface. This feeling
continues all the way from Buscalan to Bontoc to Baguio and until we reach
Manila. It continues until now. And I am looking forward to go back to that
place again.
My journey to meet Apo Whang Od dated January 23-26, 2016;
an official entry to my 81 before 30 challenge.
I'm organizing events: Climb and Beach and any other Adventure activities. Please visit my facebook page for the scheduled events or you can hire me to organize a climb or beach outing for you and your friends and family.
--------------------------------------------------
Book your trip with Booking.com! It's safe and can guarantee low price!
--------------------------------------------------
I'm organizing events: Climb and Beach and any other Adventure activities. Please visit my facebook page for the scheduled events or you can hire me to organize a climb or beach outing for you and your friends and family.
5 comments
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