It has always been my fascination to discover such a place that will break your heart when you leave. That tingling feeling inside your heart that aches while walking away on place you’ve grown to love. I never thought I would find such in the early days of 2016 and on my birthday month.

Our trip to Kalinga is just to meet the last mambabatok, have inked by her, experience the place, and do outreach program for my birthday. I never imagined that this place will give me more than that.

It was seven in the evening of January 23, 2016 when we left Manila and head on at Tabuk, the Province’s first ever City. I love long rides. It gives me an excuse to succumb to my troubled and shattered mind. Yes, there are a lot going on inside my head than you can imagine. 9 long hours on the road and we are at Tabuk at dawn. So quite. So peaceful. The sun isn’t up yet and as it breaks to rise, the beautiful city of Tabuk shines through our eyes and I know great adventures awaits us in a few more hours.

When we left Tabuk City and head to Buscalan I was still sleepy but decided not to sleep for I want to admire the view along the way. You will never know what you will see out there and I’m glad I did. The view is just magnificent and breath taking! I’m talking about the Chico River. I’ve read about it when I was doing the research about Kalinga but seeing it with my own eyes is far different than just reading it. It became our companion along the road for it is visible on every turn of the van going up to Buscalan. It was a 4 long hours drive from the city so imagine how long the river is. It was so pure and beautiful that I can’t imagine what more when I’m on foot on the river feeling the cold water up to my nerves. Hopefully, I will get to experience water rafting there one day.

Arriving at Buscalan and meeting our guide is the first step to our quest. Riding the habal-habal on a very narrow road with a few bumps is the second. Trekking for an hour on a narrow and steep hill is the third. Yes, meeting the last mambabatok requires a lot of effort, I must say. I’ve posted a detailed guide on how to meet Apo Whang Od. Here’s the link. If you are so eager to meet her you will dedicate your time and patience and every energy you’ve got inside of you and once you reach the top you will be amaze not just for what your eyes will see but the feeling of satisfaction and pride that after 14 long hours of travel all the way from Manila you can say to yourself that you made it! And that’s exactly what I’ve felt that time. I’ve been hiking for a time but this one is different. And I think, every destination is different even if you’ve been to place more than once.

GMA 7 was having an interview that time so all scheduled people in the morning were moved in the afternoon and the rest too. Giving us no choice but to wait the following of the afternoon.

What welcomed us was the smiles of the local looking so excited about the tourist coming and visiting their place and it is far more than a good site from anything. Knowing that a completely stranger to you makes you feel wanted and welcome at their place.

The initial plan is to be inked by afternoon of the day we arrive or at least in the morning of the following day, which is Monday, and goes home after that. But, we didn’t anticipate the interview, so we were moved Monday afternoon, and no trip later than 3 pm for the road is dangerous at night (blind curves and no street lights) So, we discussed everything with our guide and he told us that he can have a van going to Bontoc where we can get a bus ride to Baguio and from there board a Bus going back to Manila. That is, if we will be able to finish until 3 pm.

When we learned about our situation, we take advantage of the rest of the afternoon exploring the place. They have a rice field, a rice terraces, almost similar to Banaue, they coffee farms, a lot of pigs everywhere roaming around, and a very smiling and hospitable people of the tribe. There are no signals here so quality time with your friends and a few locals is a guarantee.

We packed canned goods and few breads with us and that’s what we eat the entire trip. Rice and coffee is unlimited and is included on the 250 per night stay at the guest house. There are few sari-sari store where we buy additional canned goods and noodles and there is this one family who sell vegetables but we managed to buy only cabbage for our last night.

Our first night is bang! We had a drink with other locals. Most are men, but are very kind and funny. They were explaining and telling their history and we are asking more about their place and how it was started. And I read somewhere that they are from a line of warrior so I asked them about it. I have a huge fascination on every warrior related thing and they are more than willing to narrate it to me. We ended the night very late and succumb to sleep by 1 in the morning.

We woke up early the following day, explore a bit more, visit Apo Whang Od’s house, and after eating our breakfast we head to the tattoo shop and check our schedule for that day. Since there are still long queues, we visit the school where we are going to give the school supplies we bring for the kids. As you know, this trip is also serves as an outreach for my birthday. After having a great time with the kids we go back at the tattoo shop and watch other people get their tattoos. Waiting is not boring. That is, if you are waiting at the tattoo shop. The shop are full of locals watching the session and having some small talks and entertaining the visitors. From time to time, some locals were singing old songs I never heard of before, it was in their dialect, but though I am not understanding it, and though no music accompaniment but the strong cold breeze and sound of the wind blowing, it is so good to the ears, the wind is in rhythm with their voices and it echoes down to everyone in the shop. More laughs of course, some of the locals were entertaining us with a lot of mind games and stories of their history and anything about Apo. It feels like a long day! And I am very excited for my turn.

The plan is to have two tattoos that day, one from Apo Whang Od and one from Grace. I did manage to have each from them. More than that, it seems like I have twice for Apo. Why? Here goes. There are few people now on the queues, most are foreigners and there are only two groups of Filipinos, the couple and us four and one backpacker. When it is my turn to Grace it was so light and easy. I didn’t feel any pain, none at all. It was like that for almost half an hour and then she rose up and exclaimed to Apo about something and it feels like she is talking about my tattoo, yes, they have different dialect, which we know nothing about, she is pointing at me and my tattoo and the locals asked me to go near Apo for her to see. It was when our guide explained to us in a few more seconds that the charcoal doesn’t inked on my skin and for that it doesn’t bleed at all. For the charcoal to stain the skin should bled. It was when I realized that Grace seek for Apo’s help and have it redo by Apo, by that time she pause on tattooing one backpacker to give way to me. So it was another pukpok session with Apo, and in no time, it was bleeding.

Apo is a beautiful woman and looks very delicate and warm. Though we did not understand her because of dialect barrier her aura is like any other grand mother. She smiles from time to time, when a tourist gives her gifts she smiled like a child who has been given the most precious gift, very simple, its as if for her, you did not just go there just because it’s the norm now, not because you’re in on the trend, but because you take time to visit her and gives her something you planned ahead on and exert time and effort on that and I think most of us will feel the same if we are given such treatment like that. Plus still tattooing at her age proves that she loves what she do and it is her passion.

It was lunch time when I was finished and Apo will have to eat her lunch first before she continue. After we had ours, we go fix our things for we are leaving right after having our tattoos. When we got back to the shop, one foreigner take advantage of no one in the shop so he was able to get head on first before us. By that time, my friend Bella is having her tattoo session with Grace too, like me she also plan on having one for each.

It was 3 in the afternoon when Apo started tattooing my friend JM, and after her is Ibeng, and then Me, and then Bella. So, obviously, we will not be able to leave for Manila that day and we accept the fact that we will be staying for another night at Buscalan. We mourn at first for we have work waiting back at Manila but all the same, this inevitable are all part of a great journey. Plus, another excuse to be away from the busy streets and polluted Manila. And getting to know more of the place.

It was almost 6 in the evening when Bella was done with her tattoo. Getting a tattoo from Grace and Apo Whang Od is different. They have different attack. I felt pain when Apo starts at my back. I don’t know if its because there are bones that was hit on but it was tolerable. I felt pain at the first hit but after that it was numb and I get the vibe already and doesn’t hurt at all.

For our last night, we drink again, but little this time for we need to wake up early in the morning.

Me and Bella, wake up early that day and we were talking about how a part of us doesn’t want to leave the place. On our few talks with our guide, we asked him if we can buy land at their place even if we are not originally from there and he said yes, we asked about how much and how it was done. Yes, we planned on buying a few meter lands there. We are planning to retire at that place one day. Oh, how we love that place so much. No signal, far from everyone, very simple living, very admirable tribe. Their culture is very rich and the people are all kind.

Every step descending takes looking back at the place from time to time. And as I am writing this one now I can’t help but remember the time when I was at the point where you can already see the tattoo shop, it was so small from where I stand, and its only few hours back when I was sitting at the nipa hut and now I am just staring at it at far leaving in a few more minutes and it struck my heart so much. Its like dragging my feet to the terminal and you are fighting back and holding on to the surface. This feeling continues all the way from Buscalan to Bontoc to Baguio and until we reach Manila. It continues until now. And I am looking forward to go back to that place again.

My journey to meet Apo Whang Od dated January 23-26, 2016; an official entry to my 81 before 30 challenge.






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It was in the year 2010 when I learned of Apo Whang Od through Discovery Channel and since then, it has always been on my bucket list to meet her and have my first tattoo by her. I’ve waited years to finally have it happened. It is one of the perfect gift I have given myself for my birthday.

Meeting the last “mambabatok” is quite easy if you look at it. That is, if you are, like me, who loves reading and doing research over the internet. My encounter with Apo Whang Od was made possible by all the Filipino blogs who’ve written guides on going to her place. My deepest gratitude to all. But not all blogs has the complete details nor will I claim my post or this post to be complete as well, for every trip is unique in their own. But let me guide you through my experience going to Buscalan, the home of the last mambabatok.

What is Mambabatok?

“Mambabatok” as what the Butbut tribe people called it is actually traditional kalinga tattooist.

Who is Apo Whand Od?

Apo Whang Od considered as the oldest living tattooist in the Philippines at the age of 103, it was pass on her by her father who taught her the way of traditional tattooing and pass it on to her grandniece, Grace Palicas, who has been to Dutdutan, the country’s biggest and grandest tattoo exposition held annually.

How she does it?

The traditional tattooing is different from the modern tattooing. Apo, uses a bamboo stick and a pomelo thorn that will be tapped on your skin with charcoal as the ink. Don’t worry, she uses different thorn to each of her client and you can ask her to keep the thorn as your remembrance. She also uses wet wipes on the tattoo during the session. Afterwards, there is a special ointment, an oil, to be put all over the finished tattoo and that’s it.

How long does it take for one tattoo to be done?

Normally, 30minutes to 1 hour. It will depend on the design. Mine takes about 30 minutes for a 2x2 tattoo design.

How much?

Again, it will depend on the design, my chest tattoo is 300 pesos only and the one at my back is 500.  But during our stay at the tattoo shop, some design cost 1000 to 1,500. It will really depend on the design and how complicated it is. It was Apo who will decide the price of your tattoo after she is finish with it, same goes if you want to have your tattoo by Grace, you will need to seek Apo’s for the price.

Design?

If you haven’t decided what design you will have its perfectly okay. They have this “almanac” as what they called it, it’s a book with different designs and meaning to choose from. They also have this wood board that is full of designs and you can ask your guide for the meaning of each. If your guide doesn’t know the meaning behind it the other guides at the tattoo shop will be more than happy to help you understand it. Don’t worry, the tattoo shop is always full of kind people.

If you happened to have designs brought with you and wants Apo to have it tattooed on you it’s impossible. Even for grace. Honestly, when this trip is in planning stage, me and my friends already have our design we want. But when we got there everything changes. The fact that Apo is not doing any customize design so its not really possible, but if you insist, you can try Grace and have your guide do the talking, but this is not 100 percent sure. It will always depend if Grace will agree to it. 

As for us, the chances of going there and have a tattoo that has meaning and holds so many stories behind is a pleasure for us so we take that as an opportunity and choose from the wide variety of designs that they have.

Another is you can ask Grace to design something for you, after all, she knows it better than us. That goes for my friend Bella, it’s a design not in the books and was made by Grace, which I will be having for my next tattoo by her on my next visit.

Is it Safe?

Yes. So far, no reports were made about being infected by Apo’s tattooing. But if you want to make sure you can always have anti tetanus vaccine before going there.

How long will it take to heal? After tattoo care?

I am no expert to this, as for our tattoos it is still healing as we speak (01/31/2016) and each and every tattoo and skin is unique depending on the reaction of your skin. So if you have a sensitive skin just ask your doctor’s advice first. But after you are done with yours make sure to keep it dry at all times. Take a bath first before having your tattoo. Don’t cover it afterwards.  My two friends have it cover when we descend and upon reaching Benguet they exclaimed that their tattoo got “nana” and is swollen more than us. Swelling is normal. Don’t over react to that, its like getting a wound, actually. Mine and my other friends tattoo is normal and doesn’t ache anymore when we reach Baguio.

If it is swelling after two days or so you may take anti-biotic as per our guides instructions. But if its not healing he suggest on going back to Apo Whang Od and she will be the one to take care of it. I really don’t know how it was done. Again, this is to worst case scenario only. The three of us are already healed and peeling now.

Again, keep it dry.

Guide?

Required? Yes. The fact that they have their own dialect is enough reason for you to have one. Plus, your life will be much easier when you have one. They will do the talking on the tattoo shop since Apo doesn’t understand much of tagalog dialect to none at all.

They are requiring a guide when you go to Buscalan, for they will fetch you at your agreed meetup place and from there your guide will serve as your companion for the rest of your trip, from everything you needed and things you didn’t know you needed too. 

You may have someone from there to take as your guide when you got there especially if you are solo backpacker, don't worry people there are very hospitable and kind.

As for us, our guide is Oliver, trust me, he is one of the best guide there. He knows perfectly how to speak and understand tagalog and English language and is very accommodating. His contact number is 09397741477. Guide is 1000 pesos per day.

Where to stay?

This will depend on your guide. As for us, Oliver did all the Buscalan work for us, I message him four days before our trip and asked him about everything and he provide the rest for us. He let us stay at his cousin’s house and that is 250 per night each with unlimited rice and coffee. Again, unlimited rice. HAHA! You will eat a lot of rice there, they have loads, believe me. And coffee, though I am not fan of coffee, but my friends are and they were asking for coffee every now and then, not just because its freezing out there but because the coffee tastes really good, well, they were exclaiming how great the taste it everytime they are drinking it so yeah I believe so.

Food?

Bring your own. Especially your preferred dish. The rice is no problem, as I’ve mentioned, they have plenty of it. Me and my friends bring canned goods only and we ran out of it. There are mini stores there that you can buy but is very limited to corned beef, tuna, and sardines, they also sell noodles, eggs and few vegetables, we were able to only buy cabbage on our last day. Expect the price of course, anyway its their only source of income there. We are the one cooking our dish, the place where we stay has a gas stove, so if you prefer to cook and share it with the family you will be staying you may do so. When we go back we actually plan to cook sopas and spaghetti and will share it to the Family.

Electricity?

Yes. But too bad, during our stay there are no electricity for almost a week. Just to be sure, bring powerbanks with you and charge your gadgets before going there. But with or without you will never be bored there. The company of the tribe and your friends is enough plus the weather there is cold enough perfect to have few drinks with the locals while learning their ways and their history.

Signal?

Oh, no. Before leaving, make sure to inform your Families and friends where you are going. Also, informed them if ever you will be extending your trip. This is case to case basis though and to worst case scenario. From our experience, since there are no electricity and the only cellphone that has cignal is from our guide (yes, there can be signal through old model phones, not to all though, for I have my old model phone with me but is no use up there, same with my other friend, our guide’s phone is cherry mobile, we really don’t know if it does the trick, but he has signal on specific part of his house only) we extend for one more night and our guide’s phone ran out of battery so I wasn’t able to message my older sister and got panic when I haven’t arrived on the day I told her of our arrival and almost have me report to the police as missing. So, yeah, make sure to inform your relatives and friends about your plan and the status of the place you are going to.

What to wear?

Anything comfy to clothes that will keep you warm at night. Its freezing there esp at night.

When is the best time to go there?

Weekdays. There will be loads of people during the weekend especially holidays and long weekend. So, to secure you will be have your tattoo go on weekdays. But for us, we leave Saturday from Manila and arrive at Buscalan Sunday afternoon and few people on the line at the tattoo shop.

Gifts?

This is not required. But you may do so. Since this trip serve as my birthday outreach too, we bring school supplies for the kids and medicines like biogesic and paracetamol. We also bring candles and matches. You can bring gifts for Apo too and Grace they will be very happy especially wet wipes for they are using it on tattoing. I suggest not bringing any candies to kids, our guide is not up for that too. You may bring school supplies or any healthy food to share with them. But again, this is not required.

How to get there?

How to go home?

This is the content I am not seeing in any post which I am very particular. For I am planning to leave as soon since we all have our work the following day. So let me share how we did it. From Buscalan, there will be a jeepney or van waiting going to Tabuk and Bontoc, the last trip is 1 pm. But if you are many or really need to go back to Manila, you can always ask your guide to help you secure a van going to Bontoc, the late trip will be 3pm. They are not accepting any trip later than that because the road is zigzag to blind curves and can be very dangerous at night. Don’t put yourself to danger.

We take the Bontoc trip because we are going to Baguio first, from Bontoc there are buses going to Baguio, the last trip is 1pm. Travel time may take up to 6 hrs.

From Baguio you can take Victory Liner going back to Manila. Travel time may take up to 6 hrs also.

If you prefer to take the Tabuk trip you may do so but the daily trip going back to Manila is 5:30pm only.

Break down of expenses:

Bus from Manila to Tabuk (Victory Liner) – 705 as of January 2016

Tricycle Tabuk Victory Liner to Cathedral – 200, 50 each

Van from Tabuk to Buscalan – 100

Single Motorbike from Buscalan to accent to village – 50

Homestay – 250 per night | 500 for 2 nights

Guide – 1000 per day | (we stayed for 3days 2nights) 2000/4 - 500 each

Tattoo – I got two tattoos one is 300 and the other is 500 – 800

Single Motorbike going to Buscalan – 50

Jeepney from Buscalan to Bontoc – 100

Bus from Bontoc to Baguio – 212

Bus from Baguio (Victory Liner) to Manila – 455

Food – 500 each for the whole stay

TOTAL – 4,022 for 3days 2 nights

Will be telling the whole adventures and mishaps on my next post.

Loves,

Ellie










I'm organizing events: Climb and Beach and any other Adventure activities. Please visit my facebook page for the scheduled events or you can hire me to organize a climb or beach outing for you and your friends and family.